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All posts for the month February, 2011

When I had settled on using the 60 in 1 JAMMA board, I found I had multiple options for my power supply. There are the standard switching power supplies used in arcade cabs, and there was also support for the older style PC (AT) power supplies. There is a connector right there on the board for 12V straight from the power supply. Most people had told me it was cheaper to just use an old PC power supply. I had a hunt around, but was unable to come up with one. I did find a few, but most were priced similar (slightly cheaper) than the switching power supplies. So because of that, I decided to use a standard switching power supply. Another thing of note too is I believe you can use the newer style ATX power supplies, but you need to short out a couple of the wires. If you are looking to lower costs on your build, getting a cheap power supply is a way to cut $20 – $30 off your final build cost.

Power supply

These are all screw connectors – which is great since I’m using a JAMMA harness. The harness wires for the power are all fork connectors, which will connect up with this easily. This one set me back $35, which included postage. It was an eBay purchase, although many online stores like OzStick and GameDude have them. Also if you are planning to have gun games, I believe you need a 3v connection – which is only available on some power supplies. So it’s worth making sure the power supply you get will power everything in your cab.

A few more bits arrived today (recent eBay purchases).

First up is the speaker and grill. It’s 10cm x 10cm in size (4″) and about 28mm in height, 5W 8 OHM. I may decided to put a larger speaker in to the final build of the cab, but I think this should be fine to start with. The Grill is made of a high impact plastic and roughly 12.5cm in size. This set me back around $9 (which included postage). The only issue I have is the connectors are slightly bigger than those running off the JAMMA harness. So i’m going to have to modify the connector on the harness to get it hooked up.
Speaker and grill

Secondly is a lock for the cab door. This will go on the front. I will be building something of a custom coin door. The plan is to have most of the cab built into the door, so using a proper coin door is out of the question (I’ve probably mentioned that already). This should do nicely. There are a variety of sizes available – this one is 23mm. It set me back around $5.
Coin door lock

After looking at a few custom projects, I noticed that people had gone with using an IEC socket.

IEC Switch and fuse

It takes the standard power cables used with most (if not all) PC’s. It also includes a fuse. It was pretty cheap (under $8) and I -think- will be the best option for me. Ideally, I want the one switch (this one) to power on the entire cab (board, monitor, fans, marquee, etc) and this switch seems to be capable of this. Now I’m off to do some more research on just how to wire this up to do just that.

The coin mech turned up on my door step today, so thought I would post a quick photo of it.

Coin Mech

You can probably see the edge of a yellow disk on the left. That is where I can set the acceptable coin size. I’ll replace it with a 20c piece later on. The supplied cable is shown too. The two grey wires are for the coin mech. Overall happy enough – this should do the trick nicely for the front of the cab.